rocky mountains against blue sky

Dong Hong Juan, first woman to climb all 14 8000-meter peaks

Dong Hong Juan, a Chinese mountaineer, has climbed all 14 peaks above 8000 meters, reaching the true summits of every mountain. Her recent climb was Shishapangma in Tibet on April 26, 2023.

The list of 14 peaks that Dong Hong Juan climbed is as follows:

  1. Everest South (8848 m) in Nepal in 2013
  2. Gasherbrum II (8035 m)—Pakistan in 2014
  3. Cho-Oyu (8201 m) in Tibet in 2014
  4. Nanga Parbat (8125 m)—Pakistan in 2017
  5. Gasherbrum I (8068 m)—Pakistan in 2017
  6. K2 (8611 m): Pakistan in 2017
  7. Kanchenjunga (8586 m) in Nepal in 2018
  8. Lhotse (8516 m) in Nepal in 2018
  9. Broad Peak (8047 m) in Pakistan in 2018
  10. Annapurna (8091 m): Nepal in 2021
  11. Makalu (8463 m) in Nepal in 2022
  12. Dhaulagiri (8167m): Nepal in 2022
  13. Manaslu (8163 m) in Nepal in 2022
  14. Sishapangma (8013 m) in Tibet in 2023
Chinese mountaineer, Dong Hong Juan

Edurne Pasaban, a traditional climber, was the first to complete the ascents of 14 8000-meter peaks, and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner was the one to achieve the same feat of climbing 14 peaks in the fastest order without supplementing oxygen. Although these two climbers climbed every 8000-meter mountain, according to Eberhard Jurgalski’s team, they didn’t reach the true summits.

Dong Hong Juan, a Chinese mountaineer, has shown that if there is sacrifice and dedication, one can reach the goal she has set at one point or another. After reaching the peak of Sishapangma on April 26, Dong successfully climbed all 14 mountains above 8,000 meters in 10 years.

The ‘Climbalaya’ team with ropes started on the morning of April 26 from 7,100 meters towards the peak of Sishapangma and reached a height of 7,781 meters in the afternoon of the same day. Viridiana Alvarez, who was part of the Dong team, said they had reached the summit by sending a message from the InReach satellite device.

Along with Dong and Alvarez, the climbing team for Shishapangma consists of Kristin Harila, Viridiana Alvarez, Sophie Lavaud, Matias Myklebust, Pemba Tenjin Sherpa, Pemba Tenzing Sherpa, Chhiring Wanchu Sherpa, Ngima Rita Sherpa, Tenjen Sherpa, and team leader Mingma Sherpa.

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